On a New York bound international flight, Tartinery came highly recommended by the folks who curate KLM’s inflight entertainment. I had passed by the NoLita establishment before and recalled being attracted to the restaurant’s industrial sort of elegance, particularly, their good use of type. On the restaurant’s cellar level you can see, a bird’s eye view of elegant san-serif numbers painted over black table tops. Excited, I watched the short which featured their Poulet Rôti Tartine (roast chicken) prepared from scratch by a striking Frenchman. Upon my return to New York, I made sure to visit.

After three years of properly living in New York, I realized I did not engage in the traditions of the young and hip as I used to or thought I did. Almost always hungry, my dinners tend to take place rather early. Nonetheless, I managed to have one of those cool late night dinners at Tartinery. The ambience did not fail to impress. In fact, we scored a table downstairs with a number on it. My suspicion is that they used Avenir, a great typeface in my opinion. If I wasn’t mistaken, the same gentleman on KLM T.V. tended our table.

Poulet Roti Tartine

If you are not familiar, a Tartine is an open faced French style sandwich. Unfortunately, the Poulet Rôti wasn’t all that grand. Although showered with sautéed fennel, it retained an unpleasant funk that occurs when chicken is not properly cooked or seasoned. The Thon Cru was fine but nothing too special. Shaved raw tuna, wasabi mayo and fennel. Interesting were the Duck Rillettes that were served in a French Kilner jar with rustic bread.

Duck Rillettes

209 Mulberry St.
New York, NY 10012


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