Pizzeria Bianco is in downtown Phoenix, a five hour, nonstop flight from New York City. A simple Italian eatery set amidst south western mesas that outline the horizon, cacti, and bone-dry 100 degree weather.
One would not be quick to assume that this is the place where some of the finest pizza in the continental U.S. is made. An almost hour-long wait and the anticipation seemed to recreate a familiar occurrence. If there was something New Yorkers did well, it was they knew how to wait. The scenario is a familiar one. We wait for trains, the post office, our coffee, and the list can go on and on. Thus, waiting for a table at a prized eating location was no encumbrance at all. Especially if you did not have reservations on hand.
My dining partners in crime were peers I had just met at the AIGA Pivot Design Conference. Their anticipation for a memorable meal was just as apparent as mine and our other fellow pending diners, mostly other conference attendees. To disregard the need to wax lyrical about this experience would be inappropriate. While the restaurant boasts house made country bread, luxuriously delicate olive oil, makes their own mozzarella and has an herb garden in their backyard—I would like to address the pizza.
Every disc that emerges from Bianco’s prized brick oven is a delicious discourse amongst ingredients that know a thing or two about savoir faire. They do not argue brashly. Rather, they express a point of view that does not over extend its stay and courteously assent to the other players in the game. This decorum is best exemplified in the Rosa, an intimate gathering of Arizona pistachios, red onion, Parmigiano Reggiano and rosemary. This is umami in its finest moment, oozing with salty pungency that is brilliantly composed. The crust was a juggle of thinness and chewiness that maintained a hearth char but a yielding surface for the ingredients to shine.
623 E Adams St.
Phoenix, AZ, 85004