A survey of Jean Georges Vongerichten restaurants which includes Mercer Kitchen, Perry St., Spice Market, and ABC Kitchen, questions the good character of an establishment that solely relies on the name of a celebrity chef alone to propel reviews and draw the crowds.
While the latter two of the list fare more successful in their attempts to bring trend and good taste to the table, more than the ethnically exotic Spice Market, ABC Kitchen is worthy of the visit. Centered around the romance of climate, the menu is in harmonious dialogue with the fruits and vegetables of the season. Consequently, the fripperies which constitute the ABC brand and aesthetic, a devotion to irregular shapes, white ceramics, and distressed woods, turn to enhance as opposed to deter.
For a non-alcoholic beverage with plenty of enthusiasm, opt for the Basil-lime soda. As for a starter, the Crab Toast is certainly worth the fondness garnered. Lighter than expected, a lemon aioli brings life to crab, usually lumped with creamier condiments.
Given the establishment’s repertoire as farm to table, true assessment came to light as dishes with vegetable focal points were ordered. Seared okra and Serrano peppers were a delight to consume. Pasta with squash blossoms, shaved zucchini, and a pistachio pesto made for a recipe of vegetarian decadence. Noteworthy was the special pizza of the day, dressed with homemade fontina and ricotta, squash blossoms, and heirloom tomatoes. A watermelon and cantaloupe pavlova, concluded the meal and the season that is summer 2012.
35 E 18th St
(between Broadway & Park Ave)
New York, NY 10003